![]() Suspension effects how your car goes over bumps. Don't go crazy, even a few tens of a degree can be a big help around tight and twisty tracks. Toe-In makes the rear more stable, Toe-Out makes it snappier and more agile. Rear Toe settings are the exact direct opposite to front. At the front, Toe-In improves agility and steering response. Unlike camber, Toe is very sensitive and even a little tweak here can go a long way to improve handling. Toe is the horizontal alignment, and it effects Responsiveness. Remember that 4X4 and RWD cars need rear grip to accelerate, so don't go too crazy. ![]() At the rear, you'll typically run slightly less. Normally you want a lot of Negative Camber at the front, settings between -1.50 and -2.50 are normally. Removing Negative Camber increases straight-line braking and acceleration grip. Adding more Negative Camber increases grip, especially at high speed. These are a great place to start, since the effects are huge and there are only ever four slide-bars to worry about.Ĭamber is the vertical alignment, and it directly effects Grip. Wheel Alignment is exactly what it sounds like, adjustments that effect how the wheel attaches to the car, and the car's stance on the road. The Peugeot 205 GTi and Ford Escort MKII are great choices, they're relatively cheap, fun to drive, and respond really well to minor setup improvements. I recommend starting with a car from the '70s or '80s, because they respond really well to tuning and have fewer bars. When you first start out, you could try setting a particular bar to zero, running a shakedown and then setting it to max and running again, as a way of finding out how each bar effects the handling. And then run more Shakedowns each time you make a major adjustment - it's important to keep track of how your changes are effecting the car. Don't feel intimidated.Īlways start by running a Shakedown with the default setup, so you know what you're starting with. ![]() I know there are a whole bunch of sliders and that's daunting, but once the understand the effects it's pretty easy. So how do we fix that? You can "dial" understeer out of a car by adjusting the Wheel Alignment, the Differential and the Suspension. ![]() And it's a huge problem: not only is Understeer boring and unrealistic, it's also costing you seconds a stage and making the car dangerous at high speeds. Understeer is when you turn the steering wheel, and the car doesn't turn as it should. On most cars, they've been deliberately set up to Understeer. Let's share it around and get people driving better.įirst of all, we need to understand what is wrong with the default setup. Please - if you've got better knowledge, holla out. I'm sure there'll be veterans reading this and screaming internally - and I would absolutely encourage them to scream externally into this thread. We've had plenty of threads already exclaiming "tune yer setup yer eejit!" but what does that actually mean, and what do all these slider-bars do? I hope to help at least a few of you get your heads around that. The core physics are pretty good, but the default setups are so abominable that you're unlikely to ever feel that. ![]()
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